993 appreciation...

...I pulled up for a moment, jumped out and closed the gate at my mother-in-law's place (Lockeridge, Wiltshire) before setting off home. I found myself taking a spontaneous moment to appreciate my car. Something I don't do often enough. Even though I'm lucky enough to own a 993, I still lust for them as if I don't. She was looking particularly sexy today...

New Sounds

It was about time that I upgraded my speakers. The paper cones had past their sell-by-date and my Alpine head-unit was crying out for more. So I dropped a quick note to Gert at Carnewal and he recommended the following:

P93183 front door speakers : 90 euro

P93077 rear HiFi speakers : 180 euro

Shipping : 20 euro

Total : 290+21%vat = 350,90 euro

He said that he'd looked around for some time for replacement speakers for his own 993 but struggled to find any that retained that original look. Until he came across the "Helix" speakers (high end German brand) that he now supplies, for the Front Door Speakers. The Rear HiFi Speakers are original Porsche parts. Descriptions as follows: 

Front Door Speakers: 2-way coaxial system, 6.5 inch / 165 mm woofer with woven fiber glass cone and integrated 0.75 inch / 19 mm tweeter with silk dome and neodymium magnet. 50W RMS / 150 max.

M490 Rear HiFi Speakers: 2-way speakers from the "Hifi"option. Will replace the 4" x 6" standard speakers on the rear deck. A full range speaker and a tweeter. Uses the same connectors as the standard speakers. Easy installation.

So I ordered both sets, and as always Gert was happy to share some wisdom how to go about fitting them...so here goes...

Speakers arrived safe and sound - always a good idea to check for any damage. Thankfully, all good. 

First I decided to tackle the rear speakers, as I thought it best to get the easy ones out of the way. 

Pull down the rear seats to expose 4x screws that hold the rear deck in place. Once free pull the rear deck out, which makes life so much easier when unscrewing the 4x corner screws of the existing speakers. Unplug the connectors and since the new speakers use the same ones it's a simple 'plug & play' installation - easy! Worth noting that you screw the new speakers in from the underside of the deck, as opposed to the top side when undoing the originals. Reinstate the rear deck with the 4x holding screws and jobs a good'un, as they say. 

A nice new pair of full range rear speakers - the little humps allow for the raised tweeters. They look and sound great. 

Now for the front ones...(did you know that the originals were made by Nokia!?!) 

Good news is that you don't have to remove the door cards, but it does require a few simple alterations...

Remove the door tray (everything under the arm rest) by removing all the screws along it's perimeter. Don't forget the one screw on the inside, under the flap in the armrest. Once removed you can access the speaker, remove the mesh and unscrew. Simply unplug the connectors - one runs from the head-unit and then other from the tweeter in the door. Then take the original speaker to the bench or kitchen worktop, whatever you prefer. And don't forget to keep the original screws and clips as you'll probably want to reuse these. I did. 

The trick here is to cut the connector 'female' socket from the body of the original speaker and use as a donor part to connect the new ones. A junior hacksaw does the job nicely. You'll also notice that the small recesses on the side of the socket bear the '+' so at least you know which side is which. 

The supplied wires that come with the speakers have crimped connectors at one end, which easily push onto the new speakers. Then cut, shorten and strip the other end. Ensuring that '+' goes to '+' and '-' to '-', solder the wires onto the donor connector socket. Now the speakers are ready to plug back into the original connectors in the door. 

Next job is to prepare the template. With the speakers comes a paper template to mark out the size of the hole. I mounted the paper onto card using some spray-mount and using a scalpel cut out the negative space. I then cut around the outside to make a thin ring that I could push between the leatherette and the hardboard door card. You don't need to cut the leatherette, instead simply pull carefully and it will tear away from the staples on the other side of the hardboard. Use a sharp razor blade to cut away the excess foam padding, approx. 5-10mm, and give it a firm rub with your thumb to remove the glue from the surface - this will make it easy for when marking out. Use the original 4x clips to hold the template in place and mark using a black pen. 

Now for the cutting. The easiest way to do this is to use a new / sharp pair of end-cutting nippers. Simply work your way round ensuring that you don't cut any of the wires that are lurking behind. 

I suggest that a quick vacuum between the leatherette and hardboard to remove any off cuts.  

You don't have to worry about filing down the edges to make the extended hole a perfect circle. The template is a little oversized so the new speakers will fit in nicely so don't waste your time. 

Simply offer up the new speaker, and carefully drill (using a pilot bit) each of the four holes. Then remove the speaker and locate the original 4 clips placing directly over the newly made pilot holes. Then connect the speaker, offer it up for the last time (don't forget the mesh plate too, minus the mesh of course, which simply pulls apart), and using the original screws secure in place.

Finally press on the mesh. 

Then reinstate the door tray. Once installed, the little logo on the mesh is hidden, which makes them appear even more original. Great.

Do the same on both sides.

Finally, turn up the stereo, and enjoy the new sounds!

Retractable Spoiler issue

Problem: There's an unpleasant vibration / shudder when the retractable spoiler closes.

After a quick examination it was clear to see that there was a bit of 'play' at the pivot points on the left and right supporting arms, suggesting that some of the bushes had perished over the years.

I ordered some new ones plus a bunch of clips as I knew that I had to remove the protective grill to get access, and those original clips tend to break as you have to 'work' them off.

A blanket or cover is always a good idea to ensure you don't lose anything into the engine bay. Simply remove the 8 clips that run around the perimeter, undo the 2 screws of the plastic guard that covers the mechanical parts, and unclip the spoiler blind to free the protective grill.

Then you'll have access to loosen off the bolts using an allen key. You won't need to hold the nuts on the other side with a spanner as they're welded. Simply replace bushes on the bolts that need doing. There were 3 in my case. I found that replacing the bushes helped but unfortunately didn't fully eradicate the play. Dad suggested I added an additional washer to each of them (he had a few lying around in his never ending box of tricks) in order to pull the whole assembly tightly together horizontally. It did the trick. Good old Dad! I tested the spoiler and no more shudder! Job done, like they say.

All that was left to do was to put the protective grill back in position. With a socket simply press fit the new clips onto the plastic clamps.

One retractable spoiler restored back to it's former Zuffenhausen glory!  

New bulbs and Porsche heaven

So, this morning I popped down to see Greg at Heritage as he ordered me in some platinum white bulbs (PIAA COMPETITION H.I.D 4100K, H1 12V 55W > 110W) to replace the original standard ones in my headlights (for both the low and high beam). These PIAA bulbs do not need any HID or Xenon components and utilize the original lighting electronics so can simply swap in, which makes life very easy. Not cheap at 30 pounds each, but the difference is remarkable - replacing the dull yellow colour with a clean, crisp, intense white light for a modern look. 

And, I ought to mention the collection of cars he had in. Unbelievable. I thought I had died and gone to Porsche heaven. A Singer (one of only two in the country), a Porsche GT (you don't see those much), a 993 RS (yummy) and the piece de resistance was an immaculate Guard’s Red 959, and not any old 959 but a Sport - as rare as rocking horse shit - only 29 ever made and this might just be the best example in existence, given it's sublime condition and super low mileage. Greg hazarded a guess that those four cars alone have a collective value of over 2 million great british pounds. And when casually asked by him which one of would have, given the chance, I really didn’t know how to answer - I guess that’s because I secretly wanted to have them all! 

Thanks Greg for sorting the bulbs and for the private view. 

Happy New Year!

It's New Year's Day and what better way than to start off the year with an early morning drive and a classic car gathering at the Brooklands Museum in Weybridge, Surrey - The Birthplace of British Motorsport.

It was nice to park up along the Members' Banking of the old race track, which back in 1907 formed part of the world's first purpose-built motor racing circuit. I love a bit of racing history...

My handbrake was put to the test - gulp.

And here's Jamie's new toy - his lovely 944 S2. Welcome to the classics! 

Rusty legs...

...I've read a lot about corrosion on the rear chassis legs, in particular where they meet the lateral supports (that give rigidity to the rear body panels and bumper). Good write up here by Jackal. On the forums you'll see a fair share of horror stories when 993 owners decide to investigate, so I decided not to take any chances and tackle the problem head on, as soon as possible, hoping to get there before the oxygen and water does. The only problem is, with these cars being around 20 years old, the odds are normally against you. So, I went off to see Tyrone to strip the car and take a look...

Step 1. Strip the car

Rear wheels off. Remove rear reflector & lights, arch liners and bumper. Disconnect wiring loom to right rear light and disconnect engine lid light, to avoid a flat battery. Some of the nuts & bolts may be a bit stubborn, especially if they haven't been touched since the factory, so it's advisable to buy replacements as some may need hacking off. A light spray of WD-40 also helps to loosen them off.

Step 2. Remove the heat shields and support plates

Only some light surface rust, but nothing to worry about. Phew.

Step 3. Prevention 

A) Sand back any surface oxidation, taking it right back to the bare metal

B) Etch Prime

Etch primer is combined with acid so that it microscopically etches the surface of the substrate forming a physical and chemical bond between the two.

C) Seal

Seal with TIGERSEAL, a polyurethane sealant and adhesive that's ideal for keeping the oxygen and water out, whilst bonding the chassis leg to the support plate. Applied with fingers giving it a rough textured surface to match the finish on the inside of arch. Drying time 30 - 60 mins. Once cured over-painted with some satin black aerosol paint to blend it all in.

D) Reinstate the support plates and heat shields

I thought it best to do the job to last a life time so bought some new parts. Ty had the support plates sprayed in matt black for an additional layer of protection. And then Craig smothered them first with some spray-on Waxoyl (rustproofing for cars) and then secondly with another generous helping of Waxoyl - this time the clear gunky stuff. Layer upon layer of protection.

Step 4. Put car back together 

Rear wheels on. Reinstate rear reflector & lights, arch liners and bumper. Not forgetting to connect wiring loom to right rear light and engine lid light (which Craig says has happened, more than once, oops).

Job done. A big thanks to Craig who did the work. And a pleasure to hangout with the guys at Riviera today.

Here are the materials:

Here are the part numbers for the original Porsche parts:

993.504.116.00 GRV Support Right, £74.94
993.504.115.00 GRV Support Left, £74.94 
993.505.645.00 Heat Protection, £59.39 
993.505.646.00 Heat Protection, £59.39
999.049.025.09 Retaining Nuts, £0.56 x4 

- end - 

A sheep in wolf's clothing...

...here's another one of Greg's projects - currently undergoing metamorphosis, from a basic C2 (very much like mine) to a menacing RS replica. With RS prices now well over the quarter of a million pound mark I'm not surprised C2 owners are upgrading. That said, I'm not sure I'd want to RS mine...as I kind of like them relatively unmolested.