P93183 front door speakers : 90 euro
P93077 rear HiFi speakers : 180 euro
Shipping : 20 euro
Total : 290+21%vat = 350,90 euro
He said that he'd looked around for some time for replacement speakers for his own 993 but struggled to find any that retained that original look. Until he came across the "Helix" speakers (high end German brand) that he now supplies, for the Front Door Speakers. The Rear HiFi Speakers are original Porsche parts. Descriptions as follows:
Front Door Speakers: 2-way coaxial system, 6.5 inch / 165 mm woofer with woven fiber glass cone and integrated 0.75 inch / 19 mm tweeter with silk dome and neodymium magnet. 50W RMS / 150 max.
M490 Rear HiFi Speakers: 2-way speakers from the "Hifi"option. Will replace the 4" x 6" standard speakers on the rear deck. A full range speaker and a tweeter. Uses the same connectors as the standard speakers. Easy installation.
So I ordered both sets, and as always Gert was happy to share some wisdom how to go about fitting them...so here goes...
Speakers arrived safe and sound - always a good idea to check for any damage. Thankfully, all good.
First I decided to tackle the rear speakers, as I thought it best to get the easy ones out of the way.
Pull down the rear seats to expose 4x screws that hold the rear deck in place. Once free pull the rear deck out, which makes life so much easier when unscrewing the 4x corner screws of the existing speakers. Unplug the connectors and since the new speakers use the same ones it's a simple 'plug & play' installation - easy! Worth noting that you screw the new speakers in from the underside of the deck, as opposed to the top side when undoing the originals. Reinstate the rear deck with the 4x holding screws and jobs a good'un, as they say.
A nice new pair of full range rear speakers - the little humps allow for the raised tweeters. They look and sound great.
Now for the front ones...(did you know that the originals were made by Nokia!?!)
Good news is that you don't have to remove the door cards, but it does require a few simple alterations...
Remove the door tray (everything under the arm rest) by removing all the screws along it's perimeter. Don't forget the one screw on the inside, under the flap in the armrest. Once removed you can access the speaker, remove the mesh and unscrew. Simply unplug the connectors - one runs from the head-unit and then other from the tweeter in the door. Then take the original speaker to the bench or kitchen worktop, whatever you prefer. And don't forget to keep the original screws and clips as you'll probably want to reuse these. I did.
The trick here is to cut the connector 'female' socket from the body of the original speaker and use as a donor part to connect the new ones. A junior hacksaw does the job nicely. You'll also notice that the small recesses on the side of the socket bear the '+' so at least you know which side is which.
The supplied wires that come with the speakers have crimped connectors at one end, which easily push onto the new speakers. Then cut, shorten and strip the other end. Ensuring that '+' goes to '+' and '-' to '-', solder the wires onto the donor connector socket. Now the speakers are ready to plug back into the original connectors in the door.
Next job is to prepare the template. With the speakers comes a paper template to mark out the size of the hole. I mounted the paper onto card using some spray-mount and using a scalpel cut out the negative space. I then cut around the outside to make a thin ring that I could push between the leatherette and the hardboard door card. You don't need to cut the leatherette, instead simply pull carefully and it will tear away from the staples on the other side of the hardboard. Use a sharp razor blade to cut away the excess foam padding, approx. 5-10mm, and give it a firm rub with your thumb to remove the glue from the surface - this will make it easy for when marking out. Use the original 4x clips to hold the template in place and mark using a black pen.
Now for the cutting. The easiest way to do this is to use a new / sharp pair of end-cutting nippers. Simply work your way round ensuring that you don't cut any of the wires that are lurking behind.
I suggest that a quick vacuum between the leatherette and hardboard to remove any off cuts.
You don't have to worry about filing down the edges to make the extended hole a perfect circle. The template is a little oversized so the new speakers will fit in nicely so don't waste your time.
Simply offer up the new speaker, and carefully drill (using a pilot bit) each of the four holes. Then remove the speaker and locate the original 4 clips placing directly over the newly made pilot holes. Then connect the speaker, offer it up for the last time (don't forget the mesh plate too, minus the mesh of course, which simply pulls apart), and using the original screws secure in place.
Finally press on the mesh.
Then reinstate the door tray. Once installed, the little logo on the mesh is hidden, which makes them appear even more original. Great.
Do the same on both sides.
Finally, turn up the stereo, and enjoy the new sounds!
