Saturday 14 December 2019

Finally, Centre Gravity…

There’s something to be said about people who spend their life dedicated to one thing. Chris is one of those people, and his thing is suspension. He’s also a Porsche guy and primarily works on Porsches. Bonus. I’ve been meaning to visit Centre Gravity ever since I got my car in 2013, so it was a pleasure to finally meet him, and his number 2, and son-in-law, Pete. Not to mention his daughter Holly and wife Jane, who work on the office side of things - a truly family run business!



My first visit consisted of a Health Check - the objective is to benchmark the car’s handling against the original factory set-up, which inevitably changes after all the years of works, and wear/tear to components like the bushes and ball joints. It includes a full mechanical inspection, a road test where Chris drives the car under a variety of conditions, and of course the use of their state of the art geometry kit. Once all the tests are complete you discuss what needs replacing and what geometry adjustments are required to suit your driving style. Even though my car was already running Bilsteins with H&R springs, and was riding lower than standard ride height, I learnt that my car was far from where it should be - a bit erratic, a bit ‘darty’, prone to oversteer, due to geometry, and with some unnecessary ‘play’ in the suspension, due to worn components. So, it wasn't bad, but there was definitely room for some improvements. I booked in for the full treatment!

For more information of the Health Check check Renn Eleven’s vlog; ‘The best Porsche suspension maestros in the UK?’

Here's the list of works for my return visit and since part of the experience is being able to watch and learn whilst the work is being carried out, I jumped at the chance of sticking around for the day...

1) (Approx 1hr) Remove front wishbones, de-bush front forward bushes and replace with Super Pro’s (which have a lifetime guarantee by the way!) to eliminate ‘play’ in the front of the car. 


2) (Approx 1hr) Replace rear right control arm with a refurbished Hartech one - in essence, they are OEM arms that have been re-bushed and re-ball jointed and are 'like new'. In Chris’ experience they are the same quality as a 'new' OEM arm, but at a fraction of the price.


3) (Approx 1hr) Remove and strengthen 2x steering dampers (on the ZF steering rack - which Chris describes as a “Jewel” of engineering). Over time, these rubber isolated parts will deteriorate again, so this is an upgrade to 'RS-fy' the steering, by welding the existing rod ends, removing any play from the steering system.

Before / After:


4) (Approx 3-5hr) Full geometry. Chris was open to discuss requirements and explained to me the pros and cons of lowering my car further - I've always wanted to lose the 'air' between the top of the tyre and bottom of the arch. The brief was to achieve that aesthetic, one which closely related to RS, whilst maintaining a geometry that is optimised for road use. Obviously, the lower you go the more it negatively affects the camber - which is great for racing drivers, but not optimal for my road use, so I had to make a slight compromise on the rear camber. Below is my final geometry, with factory specs for comparison. I'm running RS-1mm on the front and RS-10mm on the rear, with a rear camber of -2deg, compared to a factory standard maximum camber on the rear of -1.25deg. Judging by the car’s performance on the test drive the rear grip seems perfect and Chris says won’t adversely affect stability on roads. Admittedly the ride is a tad bumpier than before, primarily due to the loss of front ride height and the limiting travel to the internal bump stops - this in effect increases the front spring rate. And there's noteably a little increase in the rear tyre stiffness as the extra negative camber places extra load on the inner side wall and shoulder as well as increasing the lateral camber thrust. So over bumps I can expect a little more thud and wiggle, and perhaps some accelerated wear on the inner edges of those rear tyres - but, all in all, I love the lowered look on 993s and it’s also reassuring to know that if I get the chance to push the car to its limits, whether that's an advanced driving course or track day, it will be more than capable ;-)




Worth noting, that we decided to avoid anything unnecessarily costly - for example, some people like to get into replacing the 'wheel carriers' (with RS front uprights + Tie Rods) to eliminate bump steer, but for my requirements Chris advised against this. And it wasn't necessary to replace the other rear control arm to match the new one. Since only the ball joint had failed, Chris replaces the new bush in the Hartech arm with the old bush to eliminate bias on the other side of the car. 


It was a long day in the end. I arrived at 8.30am and left about 10pm. But what a thoroughly enjoyable and educational experience. I loved seeing the improvements being made to my car and learning about the science of geometry in the meantime. The test drive after all the work had been done was awesome - it felt like a different car - smooth, tight, direct, predictable, planted and for sure stickier on hard cornering. And it looked great too. Thanks to Chris and his 10,000 hours experience. A true expert. I highly recommend Centre Gravity. Just be prepared to make tea for him - white, one sugar ;-)


Sadly, the drive home was dark, wet and windy, so I didn't get the chance to take any decent photos or have a proper drive - can't wait for the next time I'm out...




Wednesday 17 July 2019

Blowing cold...(part 2)

I heard a nasty whirring sound from the air-con unit when blowing cold. But those Denso compressors cost a small fortune from Porsche so went to Andy at A.C.R. in Chertsey to have the unit refurbished for a fraction of the cost - £150, which is a bargain! He said that the black oil wasn’t a good sign and that the entire system would need flushing to ensure there's no debris left in it. He also recommended changing the filter drier / accumulator, and to check the expansion values. Off to Northways to refit and regas :-)



Short Shift + Shift Rod

The gear shift on the 993 is okay, but not great, and I've always liked the idea of upgrading to an RS short shift, so I went ahead and did it. I stumbled across this great write up from The Jackel here

I spoke to Gert about it and he said that the RS shifter will only reduce the throw, so for more precise shifting it's best to install new bushings in the shifter mechanism and change the shifter rod to one with a steel joint like the one from the 993RS.

Worth noting that the RS shift lever is longer downwards from its pivot point, so it can protrude below the underside of the car - but by simply turning the plastic bush through 180 degree (see pic below from Jackel's post), everything lines up again, avoiding any cutting of the transmission tunnel undertray. Paul at Northway opted not to do this, as he knew I didn't want the gear shifter to sit higher inside the car - for me it feels nicer to shift when it's squat. That's why some people like to cut approx. an inch off the gear shifter to retain the original height and not mess up the look of the leather boot. But instead of cutting the shifter, we left it as is and had Tyrone modify the undertray to cover the exposed ball joint, making it less vulnerable to being struck, and to help keep the water out. Neat job!

As expected, it feels good - it's subtle, but it definitively makes a difference to the precision, feel, throw (approx. 20%) and overall feel you get from the shifting, and in the grand scheme of things isn't that expensive to do. Below is the part list from Carnewal...

P93104-C2 short shift kit C2/C2S : 145 euro4x  999.924.002.40 Bush : 2 euro/ea = 8 euro964.424.020.82  Gear shift rod RS : 600 euroP93012 Cup strut brace : 225 euroShipping  ; 15 euroTotal : 993+21%vat = 1201,53 euro

Oh, and I took the opportunity to get a Cup Strut Brace too, so had that fitted at the same time :-)